Reading the three o'clock sky
The towers of cloud that build over the Titiwangsa range by early afternoon are why we start at half past six. When the tops go hard and white, the rain is about an hour away.
Notes from the trail
Short pieces about the things people ask us before their first trip.
What we pack for a wet cave
Two lights each, a dry bag that rolls three times, and shoes you can drain. Cotton stays in the car: it is cold for hours once wet.
Leeches, honestly
You will meet some. Leech socks over your trousers stop most of them, and the rest fall off on their own. They are a sign of a healthy forest.